Ken-ya Help Us?

Our journey to Kenya this summer was, in Nate’s words, “More of an experience than a vacation.” As a mother, I was concerned about taking my children to this faraway place, over 20 hours on an airplane, where popping big blue malaria pills each day was necessary to prevent disease, bottled water was required, and I had to remind the kids not to open their mouth during their shower.  I was also concerned about being on a trip that would last almost two weeks since a week is usually the max for family vacations before the complaining of wanting to go home begins to trickle in. Ten days is pushing it. But, on this trip there was no complaining, boredom, or a hint of ungratefulness with activities.  This trip was different.  And, it was awesome!  

Here’s our story…  (Warning: This story is long and at times rambling so please go to Days 4 & 5 if you want to read specifically about the kids we are helping with the Kenya Carnival. Days 9 & 10 are the Safari Lion Encounter. You can skip the rest of the story – Don’t worry, you won’t offend me. I’m sure my family and close friends may not even read the whole thing

Day 1 – Travel to Nairobi

Our journey began on Friday, June 5^th as we left Indianapolis through Detroit and then on to Amsterdam with our final destination as Nairobi, Kenya.  There were 11 of us in our group.  The Matthews Family –Dr. Dave, Emily,  and their children Josh(17), Sarah(15), and Noah(13); The Canal’s – Dr. Dave and his adult children Jenna, and Ben; and the Osborne’s – Me and my children Nate(15), and Carolyn(13).  Emily was the master planner and did EVERYTHING from booking the rooms, drivers, and safari to providing Ziploc bags with little chocolates on every flight to ensure smiles upon takeoff.  When the kids and I reached Paris at the very end of the trip and entered Notre Dame Cathedral, I thought of Emily and wondered how I could nominate her for sainthood.  This trip would not have been possible without Emily.

Day 2 – Arrive in Nairobi

Flights went smoothly thanks to built-in tvs on the back of the seats (coach has really upgraded) with non-stop movies on demand.  Luckily, we survived the layover in Amsterdam without contracting lung cancer which was our first miracle because the smoke made it difficult to breathe wherever we walked. We laughed out loud in the gift shop when we saw the strong warnings on cigarette cartons which were blatantly ignored, and we were anxious to board the plane for fresh, smoke-free air. As we prepared for take-off from Amsterdam on the 3^rd flight, Carolyn got sick from a reaction to the malaria medicine, but with two doctors on our team, we were in good hands as Drs. Dave and Dave took care of it. Upon arrival in Nairobi, frustration set in with the many customs papers we had to complete which never seemed quite right when we reached the official at the front of the line.  Our favorite document was the new, required swine flu form which security told us to “set on the table” in the corner – no one was even at the table to check it!  Once we made it through this process, which was slower than the BMV, we headed down to retrieve luggage. Our first sigh of relief came when our 20+ pieces of luggage appeared! After a final count of stuff and kids, with carts stacked high, we moved outside to the hustle and bustle of dusty Nairobi. Dust and darkness was my first impression of this foreign land. Of course, Emily had our drivers ready with several vans waiting, and off we went to the Methodist Guest House for our first night in Africa. Our accommodations were simple and clean but the service was Five Star.  The friendly staff whipped up the most delicious chicken & chips I had ever tasted at about 10:30 pm for us and the kids discovered their favorite new drink – Black Current Fanta.  Then off we went to bed, under mosquito nets…

Day 3 – Day in Nairobi, Travel to Eldoret

The sounds are what I remember most from our first morning in Nairobi.  I remember roosters crowing very early and very loudly, as if they were right outside the window.  In fact, they may have been – this was Africa not Indianapolis!  I remember the smells too, like something was burning.  This seemed to be a constant smell throughout the trip.  We were all surprisingly well-rested and ready for our first day of this exciting adventure.  I realized then that sleeping pills were key to overcoming jetlag so they became a part of our daily nighttime routine. The group met at breakfast which was a buffet feast of the most amazing pineapple and fresh fruit – papaya, mango, and watermelon.  Emily reminded us of what was “safe” to eat which excluded anything that was not peeled.  Beautiful music could be heard from upstairs as we lingered over strong coffee, and we realized a worship service was in progress.  After breakfast, we headed upstairs to experience a new way of worship, but there was only about 15 minutes left so we only got a glimpse.  The thing I remember most from this service were the three little children in front of us (ages 6 or 7) completely behaving without a parent in sight.  They just knew what to do. By the end I was in awe and I wished I could find their parents and ask their secret. Don’t ask me what the sermon topic was; I was too distracted with these kids.  I better work on my focus next time, especially since I’m studying to be in the ministry.  

Thanks to Emily and Dave, we had many options for our day in Nairobi and they had the drivers ready to go so not a minute was wasted.  Our first stop was the Giraffe Centre where we had the opportunity to pet and feed the endangered Rothschild giraffes and it was also where one of the most memorable moments of the trip occurred – Carolyn’s first kiss!  Being 13, it was likely to happen in the next few years, but in Africa and WITH A GIRAFFE, now that’s memorable!  The workers told us that giraffes have “antiseptic saliva” and we decided to believe them – not sure if it was the jetlag or the fact that Carolyn got mighty close to tasting some it.  Jenna, who is engaged and will be married the day of the Kenya Carnival, also decided to go for the kiss by putting the giraffe food between her lips and Noah also gave it a try.  Ben, Josh, and Nate opted out immediately.  Our next stop was the elephant orphanage where we saw abandoned or lost baby elephants being raised by trainers and a spunky black baby rhino. I was amazed to read the literature and notice an Indianapolis address.  This was just the beginning of the Indiana connections in this place half way across the world.

On our way to the airport, we decided to stop for lunch at the famous “Carnivore”. If you’ve been to Nairobi, you’ve been there or at least you know about it.  It is a lively, huge restaurant/complex which serves a variety of meats from a spit that waiters bring to your table.  We sat on the outside terrace and enjoyed the variety of meats and sausages that just kept on coming.  Alligator was something new we had to try as well as Ostrich rolled into balls and deep fried – this was Noah’s favorite.  Zebra was discontinued so we had to settle for prime rib.  Vegetarians would likely be repulsed by this place but we enjoyed it. We waved the white flag after lingering for a while over ice cream since we had to get to the airport. Eldoret was our next stop.

 

Whoa!  Wait!  Not quite yet…  We had to check those 20+ bags again and, of course, the luggage weight limit is much lighter on these smaller planes.  Who would have thought that you couldn’t check the same bag you arrived with the day before because the local baggage requirements were different?  What do they do with connecting flights?  Do people have to unpack on the tarmac and throw things out?  Anyway, even though we were clueless, Emily and Dave knew exactly what to do and rescued us.  They called it a “normal part of the process” but stressful because you never know what the ticket person will do but it always involves much negotiation and smiling. Their eloquent Swahili didn’t hurt either. In the end, we made it through and got everything checked in with less than an additional $100 in total which is apparently a good deal in excess baggage weight negotiation deals. Our flight from Nairobi to Eldoret was smooth and smaller (about 30 people) but not nearly as small as the 1-propeller plane we would take a few days later on safari.  It was quite an adventure. Just wait…

Eldoret was green and unbustled at first glance. That was my first memory.  My next memory was at baggage claim when our luggage arrived, ALL OF IT!  This is NOT a “normal part of the process” according to Dave and Emily.  It was sunny and beautiful and we were excited to reach our destination, the IU House.  We drove about 30 minutes and, as we approached town, the dust set in again. I was surprised at the busyness of downtown, the bumpy roads in the middle of the center of town that were unpaved and strewn with huge gapping holes, and people everywhere.  I was also surprised at how close the IU compound was to downtown, and this was a good thing because it made it convenient for Drs. Dave and Dave whose favorite activity was to walk around town and eat chicken & chips when they weren’t at the hospital doing surgery.  Upon reaching the IU compound which is a gated community where several doctors live and residents and guests stay while visiting, again I was astounded at how Indiana is impacting this faraway place.  I can’t go into all the details here, but please go to the IU-Kenya Partnership website to learn about the partnership Indiana University School of Medicine has with Moi University School of Medicine in Eldoret. It is amazing how their AMPATH program is treating over 70,000 HIV-positive patients while serving as a model for the prevention and treatment of HIV/AIDS all over the world.  (www.medicine.iupui.edu/kenya). 

Upon arriving at the IU House we were greeted by the many dogs who live there.  I can’t name them, but Carolyn can, and they became her instant companions.  We checked into our rooms and I immediately felt like I was back in college with four rooms on the floor sharing a common bath and community meals.  There is a wonderful feeling of hospitality and camaraderie at the IU House that I can’t put into words, and, to top it off, the food is delicious!   They even had Tusker Beer available and, of course, Black Current Fanta.  If you asked Nate his favorite meal in Kenya he would, without pause, say the “IU House” and give me some sort of puzzled look questioning why I even bothered to ask this most obvious question.  He already talks about moving there someday so the food must have made a big impact. After dinner, we turned into our rooms to fill up soccer balls for the schools the next day before heading to our mosquito-netted beds.  A lizard was awaiting me in our room when I returned, and I quietly retrieved Ben to discard it out the window (I think they can fly). Of course, I’m tough, I’m in Kenya, I would later be among lions on safari, but I was jetlagged and there was Ben so why touch that slimy thing when I didn’t have to.  I didn’t tell the kids, but I’m sure Carolyn would have wanted to hold it and play with it.  Is she really my daughter?

Day 4 – Meeting the Carnival Kids in Chulaimbo

It wasn’t roosters that woke me up on this day, it was the dogs.  I know Carolyn loved them and I know they are security dogs so I guess they were just doing their job, but it seemed like they were up most of the night.  Thanks to the sleeping pill again, we conquered the jetlag and felt rested, despite the dogs, when we awoke for our exciting journey to Chulaimbo to meet the kids we are helping put through school from the Kenya Carnival. These two days were the real reason we were here, the rest was just bonus. Our dedicated driver for the remainder of the week was Amos who was always waiting patiently for us and was a focused driver who knew the roads.  So we hopped in the van with Amos and our journey began. By the way, Chulaimbo is the region where President Obama’s grandmother lives, and we learned that you can visit her and get her autograph for a fee (I wonder if this is part of the stimulus package?).  Of course, people love Obama there, and when you take a picture and say “Obama”, smiles light up the camera. We didn’t have time to meet grandma, but maybe on our next trip.

Our first stop, after the grocery store and cash machine, was to pick up the “Umoja Project” leader, Joseph, who would be our host the next two days.  Joseph is the on-the-ground person in Kenya who travels hut-to-hut and school-to-school to visit the kids we are helping and to make sure their needs of food and issues related to schooling are met. Last year, the Kenya Carnival raised enough funds to support 25 kids through their first year of high school.  The “Umoja Project” provided an education for an additional 50 children so there are a total of 75 being supported through school currently through this project.  There are too many details to tell regarding the Umoja Project, but it an amazing interfaith project which brings people together here in Indianapolis and there in Kenya to help orphans and vulnerable children in the Chulaimbo region of Western Kenya. It was started in 2006 by a wonderful lady and now friend, Ellen-Daniels Howell, and we would see her later in the week when she arrived in Eldoret. For more information on the “Umoja Project”, please check out their website at www.globalinterfaithpartnership.com

Our journey to pick up Joseph was about two hours, two hours of bumpy, dusty unpaved roads.  Personally, I would not really call them roads but a “way”, and Amos always seemed to find the best way which often involved the other side of the road, off the road on the shoulder, in the middle of the road, whatever looked to be the best “way” in front of him.  Amos told us that the road we were on that day was the “better” road – I can’t imagine the one we didn’t take! Sadly, it is actually known as the “AIDS Highway” because a study had been done which showed the progression of the spread of AIDS in rural villages along this road.  These villages we saw along our journey were dotted with people just walking around, sitting about, and selling fruits, shoes, and other market items. People seemed to be lingering everywhere.  It was sad when we saw children because we knew they weren’t in school. 

Joseph was excited to see us and we were on our way quickly since we were already behind schedule and had four schools to visit that day and another 2-hour journey ahead.  Our first stop was a school called Ogada where we met the most welcoming, caring principal named Grace.  We learned from Joseph that the proper protocol was to visit with the principal first for a soda and conversation, and he/she would then take us to the children.  Grace knew the stories of the children we were helping and shared them with us.  She knew of their struggles.  She knew that their education was the only thing that would help them out of their current, seemingly hopeless situation.  She knew we were here to help and she was so grateful.  By far, Grace stands out as an angel among the principals we met.

It would take days to tell each of the children’s stories so I will only tell a few here.  More are under the “stories” tab and others will be added later.  One we met at this first school who stands out is a boy named Stephen who is a sophomore (known as “Form 2” in Kenya).  Stephen is living with his grandmother since both of his parents have died, and he could not attend high school because he didn’t have the funds.  In Kenya, the government pays for schooling through 8^th grade and then fees are necessary for high school (about $325 per year). Stephen could not afford these fees so he dug ditches and did other odd jobs to earn the money but still came up short.  In order to keep his brain active and skills fresh, he repeated 8^th grade several times so that he could pursue his dream of eventually getting a higher education. The Umoja Project learned of Stephen and is now supporting his education.  Stephen’s determination and hard work are paying off and he is currently 1^st in his class!  Stephen represents in many ways what the kids we are helping embody: determination against all odds, strong faith in God, hard work in school and at home to raise siblings/run household, and overflowing joy despite circumstances.  We had never seen such happy, joy-filled children than we did in this remote part of the world, and they had nothing, absolutely nothing.  Some didn’t even have their next meal.

Kids like Stephen are who we met all day, and each school we visited was a unique experience and we were overwhelmed at times. We brought soccer balls, hacky sacks, and Frisbees for the kids but it never seemed to be enough.  We wanted to bring in a truckload, not a measly luggage load.  One memory that stands out was at Kawino School, which has a beautiful vegetable garden thanks to the generosity of Jim Floyd and his “Hope in Action” organization (another website to check out – hopeinaction.org ).  As we left we were swarmed by children, hundreds of them.  We noticed that they were playing soccer but not with a soccer ball.  There were only a handful of real soccer balls available, the rest of the children had to make due so they took plastic bags and tied them together in the shape of a ball and then wrapped it in twine.  That was their ball.  I immediately thought of how I wanted a shipload of balls so each child could have one. I wondered how it could be possible that my kids alone must have 4-5 balls sitting idle in our garage right now, and here were about 300 kids that shared that same number of balls.  We wanted to give them our whole bag of balls we had brought but settled on just a few since we had many more schools to visit and wanted to ensure that each school received at least one ball. Despite feeling completely inadequate with our small contribution, our gifts of balls, hacky sacks, and Frisbees were greatly appreciated and brought huge smiles. 

The last school of the day was St. George Sianda and our very late arrival, around 5:00 pm, was   perfect timing for the weekly evening assembly.  The buildings were spread out across a large open land with cows, turkeys, and chickens running about. As we pulled up we noticed a barbed wire fence with children peering through from the other side.  They were barefoot, in ragged clothing, and of various ages.  Our hearts sank knowing this was not the first time they peered through this school fence hoping one day they would be on the other side.  Sarah and Carolyn quickly ran back to the van for our huge bag of lollipops and soon these children were enjoying a special treat. We couldn’t give them an education like the kids we were about to visit or hope for a better tomorrow, just a tiny treat to brighten their day.  But, at that moment, something was better than nothing. 

We continued on our way to the area where abut 200 students were assembled and the national anthem was already in progress and we could see the flag being lowered in the distance.  We didn’t realize it when we arrived but we would be the guests of honor for that evening assembly. The principal called us to the front on the school porch and then called up the Umoja students (About 15 in total, 4 of which the carnival is supporting).  It was a humbling moment to see them and realize that we, along with the many others working on the Umoja Project, were the reason those children were standing in front of us instead of on the other side of the barbed wire fence.  It was a moment.  The next moment came when the principal asked if someone in our group could give the children some “words of inspiration”.  I was at the other end of the group so I didn’t hear the request, but Emily called me over quickly, and the next thing I knew I was the chosen one.  “Words of Inspiration” is all I remember as I looked out on the sea of quiet students staring at me waiting in anticipation. 

 

It was one of those moments where I had no idea what to say so God had no choice but to take over.  I smiled at the principal and Emily (who was now grinning because she was off the hook) and said, “Okay, words of inspiration, I will try…”  From that point on, I’m not sure what happened but this is what came out when I turned and faced the children…

“Hello again. I just introduced myself so you know that I’m the mother of Nate and Carolyn, but I bet you wouldn’t guess that I’m also a student.  I have been a student most of my life because there’s always something new to be learned and it’s never too late…”  I can’t remember all of what I said from that point on but the focus was on the importance of education and persevering through the daily struggles and the many responsibilities each child listening might have, like raising a child or sibling.  But, I do remember the ending, “Never give up. Never stop learning.  And, in all that you do,

 Give God the Glory!” 

That was it, my first “Words of Inspiration” to the children of Kenya.  It was actually much easier than a sermon since there was no preparation and God just gave it to me, right there, on the spot. I’m sure I couldn’t have come up with anything better if I worked on it during the 20-hour plane ride.   From the heart is always the best…

As the assembly ended, the children dispersed to their various activities – sports, choir, clean-up, and we hung around and talked and played with the students we are supporting.  Beautiful sounds could be heard in the distance from the choir. This choir is actually nationally ranked in Kenya and they hold practice outside in the open air with an old, portable keyboard to give them their notes and the principal as their director.  The acappella sounds from St. George’s choir with the blue sky above was angelic and made it hard to leave.  But it was dusk and, even though school was still in session and wouldn’t be dismissed until about 7:30, it was time for us to leave since the roads (I mean the “way”) were not safe after dark.  Before we left, a student named Pamela approached me to thank me for my talk.  She opened up immediately and shared her story of how she has AIDS and how she dreams of becoming a doctor someday so she can help other people. She told me that when I said it was “never too late to get an education” my words inspired her.  Pamela is 25 years old and now a junior in high school. We had a wonderful conversation and she expressed her gratefulness for the Umoja Project which is saving so many orphans like her, and she told me that “education is the key to life”. Later in the week, I wrote her a letter in hopes that my words of inspiration would continue to give her strength. Our pen pal program is just getting started, by the way, so look for it on our website this fallJ.

As the sun began to set we left St. George, my favorite school of the day. From a distance, it seemed unlikely that a few simple buildings in the middle of nowhere, literally, could have made such an impact on me.  I’m not sure if it was the angelic sounds of the choir, the hundreds of faces seeking inspiration during evening assembly, or the stories of students like Pamela who are determined to make something of their lives no matter how high the odds are stacked against them.  Or maybe it was those children on the other side of the barbed wire fence, the ones we haven’t yet reached, which left a special place in my heart.  All I know is that I will never forget St. George School. There was a peace there that surpassed all understanding…. 

Evening was upon us and we were still driving but we had to make one stop along the way, I mean literally along the road.  Amos just pulled over in the middle of nowhere on the shoulder so that we could meet Evelyne, an Umoja student.  She is the girl on our website who tried to earn an income by selling French fries on the side of the road, the road we were now on.  Selling French fries is how she survived.  A friend retrieved her and we met joyful Evelyne.  During our short time waiting, we noticed children approaching us.  Carolyn and Sarah immediately asked if they could hand out lollipops to the children and we agreed.  As the girls approached the small group of tiny children, the children ran away as if they had seen a ghost.  One had the courage to return when the girls stretched out their hands with the candy.  He snatched it quickly and ran away.  Then others reluctantly approached and soon they were swarmed.  Do you remember the Vidal Sassoon commercial? “And she told two friends and they told two friends and so on and so on and so on…”  Within minutes, it seemed that every child in the village was surrounding the girls!  And the village was no where in sight, just a couple of huts and a few buildings, but the word got out quicker than instant messaging! As the crowd began to grow, we said our goodbyes to Evelyne and were off – it was dark and our Dum Dum supply was diminishing and we had several more schools to visit tomorrow. 

We arrived in Kisumu, a city known for the devastating post-election violence last year and a city with a high rate of malaria because it is bordered by Lake Victoria, which actually looks more like a huge swamp than a lake.  Our accommodations were simple but comfortable, and we dined with Emily’s good friends, Nekoye and Gonza.  We never seemed to tire of chicken, chips and Fanta. It was safe and delicious. Before bedtime we shared our thoughts about the day and I remember Nate saying, “Mom, it was so sad, I’m not sure I can go back tomorrow”.  It was so sad and overwhelmingly emotional.  I tried to muster up just a few more “words of inspiration” and came up with something like this, “It is sad and probably worse than we could ever have imagined considering our life in Indianapolis and how blessed we are.  But the good part is that we are helping these kids and many others. What we saw today and what we will see tomorrow just shows us how much these kids need our help and the help of people back home.” I believed in what I was saying but I’m sure there were no words at that moment that could make it much better to help my kids understand the injustices of the world they had experienced all day.  We were completely exhausted in every way so we took our sleeping pills and drifted off to sleep under our trusted nets…

Day 5 – Meeting More Carnival Kids in Chulaimbo & Back to Eldoret

Passion Fruit Juice… It was the most amazing discovery of the trip for me!  It was at the breakfast buffet on tap, like Coke, and I must have had 5 glasses.  When I drank it, I closed my eyes and I was immediately transported to some exotic island somewhere (don’t ask me with who yet – that is another story and will likely be the longest novel ever).  Anyway, back to the passion fruit juice.  I can almost taste it now.  Almost is the key word here because, of course, you can’t get it in Indianapolis!  Yes, I have tried Trader Joe’s and other local specialty shops, and if you can find it, I swear I will pay you a hefty reward.  The IU-Kenya Partnership is actually opening a passion fruit juice factory next spring in Eldoret as part of their program to help patients become self sufficient with income-producing jobs. I wonder now since it’s a “partnership” if they can do a factory in Indianapolis too.  I must check on that…

Our journey back to the kids we are supporting was much shorter than the 4 hours the day earlier and we arrived at our first school about mid-morning.   We had our groove and routine now being Day 2 so after we met each child and passed out pen pal letters we started playing games to break the ice.  Noah was our trusted photographer, and Carolyn and Sarah were expert hacky sack players by now.  After introductions, Nate usually ended up connecting with one boy and spent the whole time getting to know him.  This time it was Tobias, a Form 2 student (i.e. sophomore) who wants to be a doctor, like Nate.  They are now pen pals.  Kuoya Secondary was the name of the school and I still can’t pronounce it but I will always remember it because it was there that we heard some of the saddest stories of the trip.  If you have clicked on our “Stories” tab, you already know Susan and Nereah’s story, but I will tell it again now since these girls represent the children we are desperately trying to reach – children who have lost their parents and are raising themselves, children who are barely surviving and don’t always eat, children who have fallen through the cracks without government help or other aid.  Susan and Nereah are two “Umoja Project” students, and Nereah is a freshman who has AIDS and her tuition is being provided by the Kenya Carnival.   They lost their parents to AIDS and their brother has abandoned them so they live alone and struggle to find food since they are in school and not able to work.  When we spoke to them on this day they told us that the only food they have is the meal they would receive soon for lunch at school.  The upcoming weekend would be a hungry one without food until Monday.  Emily and I listened to their story intently and in shock as time seemed to stand still.  As I looked at them and noticed the other children in the background playing games behind them, I wondered how these girls, who were almost the same ages as my own, would survive without our help.  I guess the somewhat happy ending to this story is that, of course, Nereah and Susan, had a meal that weekend and for the many months that followed because there was no way we were going to leave Kenya without making sure of that. As it turned out Emily’s neighbor, Blaine, had given her a donation to be used when a need arose during our trip.  There were many angels on our trip, but this time it was Blaine…

Kuoya was also memorable because of the many other students who had heartbreaking stories, some similar to Nereah and Susan.  Near the end of our visit when a group of about 10 of the students were relaxing under a tree, I got my video camera out and each student was anxious to be interviewed.  The impromptu interviews would go something like this, “I’m Judith, I’m a Form 3 student, I lost my mother in the 2^nd grade and my father in the 4^th.  I live with my grandmother now.” By about the 8^th interview, tears were welling up in my eyes because, without exception, every child had lost at least one parent to AIDS, most had lost both, some ended with the line, “I’m an orphan”.  The strange thing was that they said it so matter of factly, like it was normal, but I guess in this part of the world with one of the highest HIV/AIDS rates in Sub-Saharan Africa, it was normal.  But, it was sad and I was starting to feel like Nate did the night before, too sad to go on.  Of course, Nate was fine now and off playing hacky sack with his new friend Tobias and talking about being doctors and exchanging stories of their lives. I overheard their conversation later, “We have snow, it’s white little flakes that are cold like ice and it falls from the sky and sticks on the ground in the winter. We have 4 seasons…”  Tobias smiled with curiosity and amazement, “We just have sunny and rainy, 2 seasons…” We could have spent days getting to know these children but our tight schedule forced us to move on to our next stop, Chulaimbo Primary School to see the school lunch program funded by the Interfaith Hunger Initiative in Indianapolis…

One big “Ah Ha” moment of the trip was food.  We didn’t realize that there were so many issues related to hunger in this area since our focus of the Kenya Carnival is getting kids in school.  But, if kids are hungry, they won’t be able to learn, do activities, or function at all.  We also didn’t realize that, in many schools we visited, there is a school lunch program.  So when the carnival sponsors a child, it is not only providing an education but often their daily bread.  We had just heard this first hand from Nereah and Susan and now we were seeing the school lunch program in action at the Chulaimbo Primary School. It is a lunch program that is being funded by the Interfaith Hunger Initiative (IHI) in Indianapolis. The IHI is a group of about 20 churches, synagogues, mosques, and other faith-based organizations that formed in the fall of 2008 with a goal to “End Hunger” locally in Indianapolis through supporting Gleaner’s Food Bank and globally in Chulaimbo by supporting the Umoja Project.  It is another unbelievable connection Kenya has with Indianapolis, and I encourage you to learn more on their website at www.interfaithhungerinitiative.org.  We were in awe of the lunch that was served which was warm rice and a variety of beans with fresh avocado on top.  Smiles of gratitude filled their faces and every child wanted their picture taken, proudly holding up their treasured meal.  We left our small gifts of hacky sacks and Frisbees again as we moved on to our final stop, Chulaimbo Boys Secondary School…

Up until this point in the trip, we had received a warm welcome from every principal we met, although not like the one from Grace, our first principal. She was unique and so was our last principal, but in the opposite way.  When we finally reached Chulaimbo Boys Secondary, we were running behind schedule and missed recess which was our originally scheduled time.  We started with the usual protocol by meeting with the principal, but this time, we did not receive a warm welcome at all.  This time we almost didn’t even get to meet the students!  I remember the chilly reception from the principal as Joseph introduced us in his soft-spoken, gentle manner.  He explained how we had come all the way from America to meet the children we were helping through school.  The principal seemed unmoved by Joseph’s words and responded, “Since you are putting these boys through school because you want them to learn, why would you want to pull them out of school now?”  It was beyond comprehension that we could come all this way and not meet these remaining 7 children who were in the buildings right outside.  At some point, I could not keep silent and spoke up politely saying, “We have come all the way from America with our children and we only would like a few minutes.  We also have these gifts for your school (pulling out a soccer ball and Frisbee)”.  I think it was another moment where God took over because it worked, and soon the boys were being pulled from their classrooms for our short meeting.  We gave them our usual small gift of a hacky sack and letter from their pen pal and played a few games together.  They were all grateful for our support, but again one story stood out from the crowd.  I’m not sure if it was the smile that lit up his face or his positive, energetic, grateful attitude but I clicked with Patrick from the moment I met him.  I also could see lines under his eyes which I likely noticed since they match ones I routinely see when I look in the mirror, and at some point in the conversation I asked Patrick how old he was.  Immediately, he became uncomfortable and seemed to pretend he didn’t understand me, although his English was perfect up until that question.  So, I repeated my question and soon he reluctantly and quietly whispered to me, “25”.  I instantly thought of Pamela and how many of these kids are older and their education has been delayed because of their circumstances.  Patrick was a freshman in high school at the age of 25. Thoughts and phrases from my “words of inspiration” talk the day before began to spew out again as I told him my story and how I was 43 and still in school.  I could tell, not only from his words of gratitude but also his smile, that our conversation would not soon be forgotten, not by either of us.  We both knew he had a long way to go and many obstacles to overcome, but I know he will never give up. You can see a clip of Patrick in our DVD that is coming to the website soon – you will know him immediately.   I will never forget my new friend Patrick. His smile is imprinted on my heart…  

The battery on my video camera was flashing as our visit came to a close, but I had a few more clips I had to get, clips of our children. I wanted to capture their thoughts at that moment, completely exhausted and yet exhilarated after meeting 21 of the 25 kids the Kenya Carnival is supporting.  Nate was my first and, unfortunately, my last clip since my battery ran out with his final words. I must admit that it is my favorite clip of the trip because it poured out from his heart.  It is real. When I listen to his words I am inspired, not because he is my son, but because he “gets it”.  He gets the idea that life is not “all about me” and that we live in a world filled with hurt, pain, and injustice and we need to help those who are not able to help themselves.  He gets the idea that we are blessed so that we may be a blessing to others.  As I think about his words and how they would be considered unusual for a “typical teenager” of today, I wonder why it is unusual and not the norm. I wonder now as I write why we make so many excuses these days for our kids to justify their self-centeredness.  In our “me centered’ world, it is common to hear parents say, “Well, He’s just being a teenager.  It’s normal” with kids who have drug/alcohol issues, who misbehave, don’t do well in school, and often cuss at their parents. I wonder now why we accept this popular notion of “teenager attitude” as “normal” and set out expectations for them so low.  We never had excuses growing up.  We were expected to do chores, get good grades, summer jobs, and get scholarships if we wanted to even consider going to college. There was no free lunch. My kids are certainly far from perfect, and I can honestly say that there have been struggles and it hasn’t been easy, but life began to change around our home when I stopped making excuses and set the bar high, expecting they would reach it.  Okay, I digress again… That’s another sermon for another day. I guess I am destined for the pulpit.  Anyway, Nate’s interview is one that opens the DVD so you can see for yourself.  I was so proud of all of our kids – Nate, Carolyn, Sarah, Noah, and Josh who all “get it” because they have seen another side of life that they wouldn’t have seen in Carmel.  And it’s another side of life you can’t ignore once you’ve seen it. We were all changed by these kids in Kenya.

Our trip back to Eldoret was uneventful except that we saw a baboon on the way, just sitting along the road.  Nate asked Amos to pull over quickly because he wanted to get a picture.  I jumped out in order to protect Nate since I thought monkeys were wild.  Anyway, I think it was the jetlag or maybe motherly instinct that snapped me into protection mode, but we survived the photo and we were on our way.  This would not be the last photo taken in harm’s way, not even close.  We dropped off Joseph and were blessed to meet his lovely wife, Anneh.  Joseph is an amazing person and the reason the “Umoja Project” is able to reach these children who fall through the cracks in these remote parts.   The only other thing that happened on the trip home, other than the baboon, was that we unexpectedly hit a huge pot hole and Noah hit his head on the roof of the car.  He was okay but it shook us all up.  It was the first time on our 2-day journey that the “way” failed us.  When I was reflecting on our experiences and remembered this drive, I thought about how the roads on this journey could be a metaphor for the journey of the kids we are helping in this remote area of Kenya.  The road in front of them is filled with potholes, dangers, and is often impassable so they have to find a “way” which is basically any way they can make in order to get to where they are going.  The “Umoja Project” creates “a way” when they hit the impassable road on their journey.  Our children have the opposite, often a straight, paved highway in front them filled with many opportunities and many paths.  Yes, sometimes there are a few potholes along the highway, but their journey ahead seems to be a wide open space with many choices available…

Okay, enough reflecting… We are off to Karaoke back in Eldoret now.  I swear I am not ADHD as I switch from one topic to another at Olympic speed, it is just pouring out so you are getting the raw footage here.  But it does speak to the pace at which we were moving and the variety of experiences we encountered on our trip. There is no way we could go back and have this same trip again. It was ever changing, go with the flow, “Hakuna Matata”(no worries)…From baboons on the side of a dusty road in the middle of nowhere to jammin’ to Abba at Karaoke.  Anyway, we did arrive back safety and Noah was fine – no MRI necessary which was a good thing because I’m not sure they even have that equipment there unless it was in our 20+ pieces of luggage somewhere.  We were exhausted and hungry and happy to be back among the many new friends at the IU House.  The Tusker beer was also cold.  A group of residents along with Ben and Jenna decided to go to Karaoke in town and we met them there later.  It was a little bizarre to hear songs that are familiar being sung with local accents and jazzed up bongo drums but it worked somehow and was a blast! Jenna won the “Best Couples” song with a complete stranger named Matt from Indianapolis who was staying at the IU House as they belted out “Total Eclipse of the Heart” complete with emotion and moves.  My second favorite was one of Emily’s friends singing “Mama Mia”.  I was shocked they even knew Abba over there and I sang along smiling wishing I could beam Carolyn in at that moment so we could blast out our favorite song together. Another memorable song was a middle-aged local man who was dressed like John Travolta from “Saturday Night Live” who performed to the song, “I’m Iron like a Lion in Zion.”  Perform is the key word because he had the moves and he really got into it.  I’m positive this was “his song” and it was not the first time he performed it. It was a fun night but I knew it was time to leave when two 20-somethings got up to sing (well, not really ‘sing’) a rap song called, “Jesus Walks”.  I have never been a fan of rap and this song confirmed it.  We took a taxi back to the IU House and fell asleep immediately.  Lizards and dogs could not have kept me awake another moment…

Day 6 – Eldoret – Hospital, Imani Workshop

It was our first full day in Eldoret and we began at the hospital.  It is impossible to put into words the impact that Indiana University and the many IU physicians on staff are having on this part of the world.  The name Dr. Joe Mamlin is one name you may know and one the locals know well.  He is up for the Nobel Peace Prize again for his work on the IU/Kenya Partnership’s AMPATH program.  His story has appeared in the Wall Street Journal and last year during the violence after the elections, he and his wife, Sarah Ellen put their lives on the line and stayed in Eldoret to help the people when most expatriates left the country immediately.   Dr. Mamlin and the many others on staff there are changing the world as they work to fight the HIV/AIDS pandemic.  Unfortunately, the Mamlins were not in Kenya during our trip, they were back in the states, but we ran into them at the airport on our way out of town. 

Our day was a busy one packed with activities, again.  We were in awe at our first stop, the new Riley Mother Baby Hospital which was a dream of our church member, Dr. Jim Lemons.  It had recently opened and is the only hospital of its kind to care for women and their children in sub- Saharan Africa. We also got a glimpse of the operating theatres that were literally built by Dr. Dave, Emily’s husband.  I’m sure when he took the job at the hospital as a surgeon he had no idea he would have to build the operating rooms before he could operate.  Dave is as amazing as Emily.  Anyway, I was once again astonished with the Indiana connection, this time our own church, 2^nd Presbyterian.

Our tour was short because we were anxious to reach the Imani Workshop which is a business that was created through the IU/Kenya Partnership to provide HIV/AIDS patients with income-generating jobs so they can support themselves and their children, similar to the passion fruit factory.  The Imani workshop produces beautiful beads, purses, bags, bowls, journals, greeting cards, etc…to be sold locally and back in Indianapolis as well as many parts of the U.S. When I arrived, I met Diana and she opened up suitcases of beautiful fabrics so I could select a few to be used for the purses and aprons I was ordering.  Sarah and Carolyn were excited to help make paper and, on Friday, we returned for an entire day of work at Imani. But, on that afternoon we went back to the hospital and did crafts we brought to the children in the Sally Test wing of the hospital which cares for young children.  The sad stories continued and I was emotionally numb and exhausted at that point. I desperately needed a nap when we returned to the IU House, but it is never a good idea to nap in the afternoon when traveling overseas because you could be out for the night or at least until about 1 am, at which time you would be completely awake.  So, I stayed up which turned out to be a good decision because soon we were off again. This time we headed downtown to do some shopping with Dave and the girls. 

Even though Dave and Emily have been back in the states for over 8 years, I didn’t realize they were still celebrities!  As we walked in downtown Eldoret, Dave seemed to know everyone – people we passed on the streets, shop keepers… there was never a stranger around us.  In fact, many know him by name and some by his nickname, “Daktari wa mizigo” which means “Doctor with Bags”.  This nickname fits Dave because, from the moment we left Indianapolis, I remember Dave carrying bags, many bags, not just two or three, more like five or six.  With the carry-on restrictions, I’m still not sure how he made it on the plane with all of them.  Maybe they didn’t notice as he had them draped around his shoulder like an accessory. It was almost strange to see him without all those bags – something seemed missing.  Well, nothing was missing on our walk around town, Dave had all the bags – cameras, videos, not sure what else was in there.  Anyway, we walked around town and, as we walked, Dave’s face lit up with a grin as he said with excitement, “Let’s go to the open air market.  You have to ‘experience the market’”.  I wasn’t sure what ‘experience’ meant but I totally trusted Dave and knew he wouldn’t take us somewhere that wasn’t safe.  Also, if it wasn’t safe, there’s no way he would make it out with all those bags, and there’s no way the “Doctor with Bags” would risk that so, of course, it was safe.  As we approached the street entrance, however, he made a comment that made me wonder, a comment I will never forget, “It’s perfectly safe.  Hold your purses close.”  Yep, that’s what he said, all in the same breath.  Now if you unpack this statement, it really makes no sense. Why would I need to worry about my purse if it’s “perfectly safe”.  A few minutes later, when we went in, I knew this statement might have been a stretch.  In fact, from the moment we went in, I couldn’t wait to get out and check this “experience” off my list!  Wasn’t being in Kenya experience enough!  All I remember is being crammed in with hundreds of people, stands of vegetables, meats, fruits, clothing, and just tons of stuff at every turn. I clung to my purse and camera as people constantly brushed shoulders because there was no room to move. I didn’t want to look down because I am absolutely positive rats infested this place.  From the moment we went in, people were staring at us, trying to sell us stuff, and seemed to be focused on our every move. We couldn’t have stood out more if we helicoptered in, but we were out quickly and I actually got a photo without my camera being stolen.  Dave, my “it’s perfectly safe” friend, told me to “take it quickly” so I only got two pictures. 

The rest of our shopping was uneventful and much more “perfectly safe” and continued at stands along the road. Then we walked to a group dinner downtown since the IU House doesn’t serve in house that night but provides dinner out for 50+ guests.  The usual chicken, ugali, and spinach were served along with some sort of potato/vegetable which Ben appropriately named, “Thanksgiving in a Bite”.  He nailed it.  No turkey was necessary.  Back to the IU House – nets, sleeping pill, dozing in and out through barking dogs all night. You know the routine by now…

Day 7 – Neema House, Laundry, Relaxing, Reflection…

As I write this story, I am almost exhausted and can’t believe we did all of this, but we did thanks to Emily who was the master planner. Today she took on the additional task of coordinating the Duke Divinity seminary students who had just arrived with Ellen Daniels-Howell, the “Umoja Project” director in Indianpolis.  There were many options for the day that Emily laid out:  Tour of Passion fruit factory (but it wasn’t open yet so it would be torture for me), tour of AMPATH farms, Neema House, and hospital for rounds and surgery.  Most of us chose Door #3 – Neema House.  Nate went for #4 – Hospital with Drs. Dave and Dave. 

Neema House is a story in itself that could take up pages and pages, a whole book. The story would begin with two loving, faith-filled people, Joshua and Miriam, who love children and for the past four years have been adopting them.  They seek out orphans who have been abandoned, many who have health issues, many are HIV-positive.  Right now they have 25 children under the age of 5 and they are the sweetest, best-behaved, joyful and full of life kids that I have ever seen in one place.  I no longer need to find the parents of the three children from the church in Nairobi, I now know Miriam and Joshua. I did not have a chance to ask them the secret of their joy and peace that also is embodied in their children because it seems obvious when you meet them and begin to listen to their stories.  The theme and foundation of everything they do is their faith in God.  The way God has worked in their lives to make the Neema House possible is truly miraculous along with the individual miracle stories of their now 31 children.  And, they really are their children and it is one big family.  These children will live there, go to school there, and prepare for life in this comfortable safe haven since each child has been legally adopted by Joshua and Miriam. 

We spent the morning at Neema House playing soccer, Frisbee, and hacky sack outside.  The children squealed in delight when Ben blew bubble as they ran around the yard to catch them.  We then moved inside for crafts and nail painting and even the boys wanted their nails painted.  With the help of the Duke Divinity students, we were able to set up many stations with different crafts so the kids could rotate from making finger puppets to animal tattoos to necklaces and bracelets made out of foam and beads.  They all donned their new accessories with their smiles before our time was over.  I created animal finger puppets and got a Swahili lesson in the process from the oldest boy at Neema named Stephen. When Stephen told me lion was “simba” I was shocked.  I thought it was Disney creativity but it was, in fact, real Swahili. His smile reminded me of my new friend Patrick from Chulaimbo. We could have stayed at Neema all day, all week.  It was a peaceful, calm place which seems almost impossible with all those young children running about, but we were experiencing “impossible” all week so I didn’t doubt it for a second. There was just something about the Neema House that can’t be put into words only experienced, and it was an experience I could do over and over again, unlike “experiencing the market”. My prayer when I left was that God could create Neema Houses with loving parents like Miriam and Joshua all over the world so that there would be no more orphans and sick children abandoned on the streets. 

The afternoon was relaxing and we had some down time for the first time.  Actually, it was time to do loads of laundry but it felt like a break.  Laundry is actually therapeutic for me at home.  I’m not sure if it’s the fresh smell of clean sheets, the soothing sound of the dryer, or the sense of accomplishment that I have actually finished something which brings me joy in my busy days.  At home, I could do a load in almost an hour but, in Kenya each load took 2 ½ hours just to wash!  The machines looked like the high tech front loads at home but they took forever and only had cold water. Even though hot was an option, it just wasn’t available.  It was fine. I was grateful I could get hot water in the shower.  I would never complain. Most of the dust came out so that was good enough.  Carolyn spent the afternoon happily playing with the dogs.  Nate was resting, working on a letter for the carnival team back in Indianapolis, and he signed up for a Swahili lesson on his own when he ran into the tutor at lunch.  I enjoyed the quiet afternoon hanging laundry on the line to dry.  It slowed me down.  This was a much needed pace.  I could rest, breathe, and begin to absorb what happened the last few days. Up until this point we were running so fast. We had not taken time to soak it all in, to share our experiences, to just be. That night I was invited by Ellen for reflection time with the Duke Divinity students, and it was then when I finally stopped that I was able to pause and reflect. And, it’s only now (a month later) that I have been able to take it all in and am now ready to dump it back out. With my mind at peace and my laundry still damp and hanging on the line a restful night was born.  Only one day left in Eldoret …
Day 8 – Last Full Day in Eldoret, Imani Workshop, First Surgery for Nate   

It was hard to believe that it was our last day in Eldoret. We had arrived just 5 days earlier and it seemed like we had been there for months.  We all headed in different directions, again thanks to the never-ending planning of Emily.  Nate opted for the hospital again but this time he would be able to observe in surgeries, not just rounds.  At the end of the day he said he “Definitely didn’t want to be an orthopedic surgeon”. He said they were very rough pushing and pulling on parts of bodies and drilling things together.  He likened it to carpentry or building something in the garage.  Emily, Sarah, Carolyn and I headed back to Imani Workshop since the girls wanted to spend most of the day there doing the different crafts – from beading to paper making to creating/painting sculptures.  I’m sure they would still be there if we didn’t have to leave the country.  In fact, although Nate loved being in surgery, he wishes he had more time at Imani and also Neema House which I’m sure he will get on our next visit.  When we arrived at Imani early in the morning, we were just in time for their morning worship service.  Joseph, the “Umoja Project” leader in Kenya and our host earlier in the week, was asked to give an impromptu sermon and he seemed prepared and didn’t pause. I got away with “words of inspiration”, he had to do a whole sermon on the fly. At that moment, I was glad I didn’t know Swahili and really glad they didn’t know I am a seminary student.  Usually, whenever I tell people what I do I am automatically assigned the prayer, speech, sermon, whatever spiritual direction is needed at that moment.  I have to remind people that I am a “student”.  But, Joseph, who is not in the ministry did a fantastic job although I don’t remember his sermon either because it was in Swahili (I have a good excuse this time). After the service, the girls went to work, and hours passed before they even considered that we might have to stop to eat lunch.  I stayed and did more shopping, had more bags made to order, and just enjoyed doing nothing for a while. Doing nothing is something I need to do more of, not only in Kenya….

After an extended morning at Imani and the hospital for Nate, we went out for a late lunch. It was a delicious and familiar lunch at the Matthew’s favorite place called Oasis where we had milkshakes, “American style” and, of course, chicken & chips, with two medical students we met on their rotation in Indianapolis a few weeks earlier, Charity and Hudson. We returned to the IU House for a break before heading to our final dinner in Eldoret, a Chinese dinner. I’m not sure why it wasn’t chicken & chips since we were on the c & c roll, but it was Chinese which we learned is not a specialty in Africa.  It actually took about two hours, not exaggerating, once we ordered and it was frustrating because we had to pack that night when we returned.  I mean repack.  Of course, there were more luggage issues even though we had less than half of the amount of stuff from when we arrived because we had given all of the supplies, balls, games to the kids and were also leaving most of our clothing behind since the people needed it there more than we did.  But there was an issue with the very small, 1- propeller plane we would be taking to safari the next day so we could only take a small bag. Emily arranged for the rest of the luggage to be sent on to Nairobi but warned us, “Don’t send anything of value to Nairobi. Take it with you.”  This reminded me of her husband’s “It’s perfectly safe. Hold your purse close” comment.  We arranged and repacked, excited for the next leg of our journey, safari. My final memory of our last night in Eldoret was of the stars.  I can’t remember seeing a sky so beautiful and so completely covered.  I wondered what the sky would be like on safari in the middle of the wide open plains with no lights in sight…

Day 9 Saturday – Goodbye Eldoret, Hello Masai Mara– Safari Time!

This is where the experience ended and the vacation began.  I must admit before I talk about this part of the trip that there were many discussions related to budget before we booked it.  We realized that we would likely spend more money in the next 24 hours than we did the entire week, but when you go all the way to Africa, it seems somewhat ridiculous not to go on safari.  The question is which one and how much.  Emily, of course knew the answer since she, Dave, and their kids had been on over 10 different safaris while they lived in Cameroon and Kenya.  For the money, Emily thought Mara Safari Club was the best because we would stay in tents and would get the full safari experience since the camp was on a river where hippos lived.  At night, interesting hippo grunting would be what we would hear as we drifted off to sleep, not cricket chatter from back home.  We went with Emily’s recommendation and opted for the hippos on the river and it was the right decision.  I have never been in such a relaxing place in my entire life…

Our final morning in Eldoret began early as we headed to the airport with a much lighter load and said goodbye to the rest of our luggage as it was packed into a van headed to Nairobi.  We hoped we would see it again the next day and we did. The airport was not crowded and we were the only ones in the waiting room because we were the only ones on the plane. It’s a good thing no one else was on it because there were no seats left, just 10 plus the co-pilot seat which Nate hopped in. It was a big week for Nate, one day a surgeon, the next day a co-pilot!  It was a smooth flight until the end when the pilot tried to dip down to see the animals for our benefit and we were so close you could actually see them.  I would have skipped that part. As we landed, I saw a cheetah or maybe it was a lion running away from the plane.  We all saw the zebras and giraffes along the grass runway.  You couldn’t miss them.  Upon exiting the plane we chuckled when we saw the hut that said “lounge” and the welcome reception area where locals from the Masai Village were sitting along the road with blankets on the dirt showing off their wares.  The trip from the airport to camp was the best airport trip ever!  We stopped to see hippos, gators, monkeys, giraffes, zebras, etc… I wondered how the game drive could top this.  We did eventually reach the Mara Safari Club and was greeted with a warm welcome, cool towel, and refreshing fruit drink.  Not passion fruit juice, but it hit the spot.  From this moment on, my body slipped into a relaxed state that would remain until our departure. It was amazing…

I feel I must clarify two common terms to help you understand our accommodations a little bit better – “camp” and “tent”. Although it was a “camp” out on the plains, it was more like a hotel with electrical fence surrounding it to prevent the lions from joining us for dinner or having us for dinner!  It had a lovely dining room, inside and outside, and an open air reception with a beautiful stone fireplace and bar for chilly nights.  There was also a library with internet access.  The pool area was small but as nice as any resort back in the states.  “Tent” is also a confusing word that needs clarification since I don’t consider myself a camper who stays in tents (okay, I’m a little high maintenance in this area). The kids and I decided that the “tent” was actually the nicest hotel room we had ever stayed in complete with a full elegant bath with shower, sink, and two 4-poster queen beds with the most comfortable bed and pillows ever.  It would give the Westin’s trademark “Heavenly Bed” a run for its money, for sure. The service was great too.  For example, a wake-up call consisted of a soft voice greeting you with “Jambo” outside your tent in the morning instead of a loud telephone (there were no telephones, tvs, electronics in the tent, just lights by the way).  Crumpets and hot chocolate or hot coffee prepared to order would be awaiting you on the table outside your tent on your way to your “Sunrise Game Drive” around 6:00 am.  I’m not sure why the monkeys above haven’t caught on to this yet…

Once we arrived at the “tent” it was hard to leave.  A nap was not an option but a requirement after lunch in the tent with the most comfortable bed and amazing peaceful sounds of nature surrounding us.  I could barely stay awake through lunch at the thought of it. At 4:00pm, the “Afternoon Sunset Game Drive” was upon us so we were off on an exciting adventure to see zoo animals who were free to roam the world.  With his camera and new lens in hand, Nate was excited and ready to see the Serengeti Plains that he had studied in school, but we soon learned that we weren’t actually on the Serengeti although it was the exact same terrain.  Apparently, when you cross over from Tanzania to Kenya the Serengeti becomes Masai Mara.  In the end, it didn’t matter because we saw everything – elephants, giraffes, gazelles, zebras, rhino’s, monkeys, buffalo, ostrich, alligators, hyenas, and even the lions which are more difficult to spot.  The highlight of the day came at the very end as the sun was setting.  This is when the “cats” usually come out.  Our driver drove slowly along the brush and told us to look closely because that is where lions usually rest. He was right and Carolyn had an awesome eye and spotted two in the distance, about 30 feet from our Jeep. Within a few minutes, our driver had radioed the other Jeeps so the area was swarmed within minutes.  Nate got some amazing photos, and his new of love of photography grew as he switched lenses to capture it all. I thought later that the “tent” management should have given us a break on our rate since Carolyn caused great excitement for many guests that day spotting the lions.  It was an awesome game drive and all returned satisfied because what we saw on our first game drive out was what some guest don’t see during their entire stay.  But, we were on the expedited 24-hour plan so every minute of safari counted.  We opted to stay in for a quiet dinner that night while the rest of the group ventured out for a huge bonfire dinner on the plains where wild animals lurked and lingered about in the darkness surrounding them.  I was still recovering from the Eldoret “market experience” and went for the safe dinner in the dining room.  I am yawning now as I write because just thinking about this place makes me relaxed.  It was the most peaceful sleep I can remember even though it ended at 6 am with a “Jambo” outside our tent…

Day 10 – Last Day in Kenya – LIONS!!! WAY TOO CLOSE!

Okay, there are two types of Jeeps on safari – open and closed.  Basically, that’s it. Open is wide open.  I mean, no walls, no roof, no windows – just seats and beautiful plaid blankets for chilly mornings on “Sunrise Game Drives”. Closed jeeps are what had been our mode of safari transportation up until this point – windows, doors, and a roof that opens so you can stand up and peer out but it is a closed space.  The open Jeeps were more popular so we went extra early for the “Sunrise Game Drive” to secure one, and we were the first ones there. I still don’t understand how we could be on time, even early, when I had no clock or idea of what time it was.  When we heard our wake-up call “Jambo” outside our tent, we just jumped out of our pj’s and into our clothes, grabbed the hot drinks and crumpets and started running for the lobby.  I wonder now why I can’t seem to be on time for anything in Indianapolis when I am surrounded by clocks – two in my car, my phone, house, etc… Anyway, I digress again… We were early and excited to secure a wide open Jeep.  Later, I would regret this decision and would have gone for the walled, closed option with windows that could be secured if I knew what the morning would bring.  Little did I know what awaited us…

You know the expression, “Timing is everything”.  “Location, location, location” is also one that popped in my mind. Well, it applies to game drives too. And, it was because of timing and location that we landed smack dab in the middle of a pack of lions!  If there would have been a swat team watching the pack as they moved they couldn’t have told us more precise coordinates of their location.  We just turned into a trail in the brush and our driver immediately turned off our car because there we were right in the middle of them!  Most people would call this “lucky” or the “highlight of the safari” and the reason they went.  I was terrified and would have been happy with pictures and the lions from 30 feet Carolyn spotted the day before.  Ten feet from the Jeep was a bit too close. Remember, we were in the WIDE OPEN JEEP – no walls, no roof, no windows – just seats and beautiful plaid blankets for chilly mornings on “Sunrise Game Drives”. Honestly, I was physically shaking with fear and I could barely videotape, but I forced myself with the thought that, if the loins attacked us, at least people could see what happened since the lions would likely prefer us over the cameras.  So, I thought the final clips would be important, like the little black box found on airplane crash sites. These thoughts were actually going through my mind and they continued… Of course, if we survived, it would be the BEST video clip ever and one we would watch that would make us seem really cool and adventurous to our friends and family back home.  But, since I’m shaking while video taping I don’t seem cool at all, and Nate makes fun of me every time we watch it. However, it does serve as proof of our lion encounter, and I will upload it or send a link if I ever stop writing this story (which is doubtful at this point since I have been writing nonstop for days). So, there we were in the middle of a pack of lions and, all of sudden, other Jeeps appear too but this was a small area. Even though I didn’t read it in the literature back in the “tent” I’m pretty sure it’s not a good idea to box in a pack of hungry lions.  By the way, we knew they were hungry because we had just seen them in the distance 15 minutes earlier scouting out a pack of zebras and they were headed in that direction, but we cut them off.  Another Jeep decided to pull in to this very small passage way and cut them off too which again was probably not a good idea, but they were in the CLOSED JEEP so they had nothing to lose.  Angry, hungry lions would definitely go for our Jeep, the WIDE OPEN JEEP with small children just a few feet away.  Need I say more of this encounter.  The pictures say it all. The lions slowly moved around the Jeep obstacles that had been put in their path.  The last one must have been the leader, the Mama Cub, because she was big, strong and cut up. She had a gash by her throat and on her back.  It looked like she had just been in a fight with someone, something, and I hoped she was not in a rebellious mood. 

Since I’m here to tell the story, we obviously made it out alive. Our biggest regret was that the second half of our group missed the whole thing.  They were off in another area and didn’t get the radio call.  But we shared our adventures over breakfast and later our pictures before we left. 

It was hours before our departure from the safari and Kenya and we made one more adventure out to the Masai village.  There are actually many tribal groups that exist in Africa and live as people did many, many years ago without modern conveniences and technology.  They walk the plains with a wooden rod for protection from the lions and their villages are out in the middle of the plains with stick fences that are no taller than me.  We experienced their life in the village as our last memory.  The dancers, with huge, cut-out ear lobes and adorned, beaded dresses greeted us and the men did a special vertical hoping that the Masai’s are known for.  Dave, Ben, and Jenna even gave it a try.  We toured their huts, made of mud and dung which housed sheep in one corner, children in the other.  It was better than National Geographic.

At the end of our visit we, of course, had to shop in their market where every person in the village had a stand.  Dave and Emily were our master negotiators with their elegant Swahili since their beginning prices were ten times what they were worth as we were warned by our driver.  Everyone enjoyed the exchange and we helped their livelihood with our purchases since we were the only people present that day.  The Masai Village was like another world.  No, it was another world…  

In our last afternoon of the trip, I found myself on the deck of the Mara Safari Club overlooking the hippos.  From the moment we arrived on this same deck the day before I immediately felt at peace.  It was the most relaxing place I had ever been and I am already saving for the next trip. I wanted to capture that moment and extend it because it was the first time I had time to sit and take in all of the week’s activities. And, unfortunately, it was the first moment I took to pull out my journal and write. This is what I said, “I am reflecting by the river with the hippos splashing below and exotic birds chirping all around me.  Nate just spotted a huge lizard off the balcony that could have been a crock and monkeys are playing overhead swinging from tree to tree.  They are difficult to spot but we didn’t give up trying. It is so restful and peaceful here – truly paradise…  I cannot possibly sum up this week in pictures or words. It was an amazing experience that will linger forever.  It began at a hectic pace and we slowed down as the week progressed and came to a screeching halt at Mara Safari Club. I wish we could stay. I long to return someday…”    

Just when we thought the trip was over, there was one more thing to do. Ironically, we were invited to the local church service by the receptionist in the last hour, and Emily and I went although we had to leave the service early to catch our flight.  I wanted to experience worship in this faraway place and thank God for the blessing of this trip. I also thought it wouldn’t hurt to pray for a safe journey back which would also be on a small plane in not such great weather with gray clouds looming overhead and a storm moving in on the horizon.  It was a simple service with just a few people and what I remember most was the time of testimony (not the sermon again, but I remember all of them since I’ve been back:).  I remember a young woman standing up to give thanks for something, something she was very happy about, something important to her.  I don’t remember what it was, but I remember thinking at the time that it wasn’t really anything much at all or at least it didn’t seem like anything to me.  But as we learned all week, the people in Kenya found joy in simple things and were grateful for everything even though most had nothing.  There they thanked God for things that are not even memorable to me now.  There they appreciate everything.  My only regret is that I didn’t have much money with me for the offering and I didn’t stand up and give my testimony of gratitude. Instead, I looked at Emily and smiled with a look which she understood because it was the same look she had given me earlier in the week at St. George School. So, you might just say I was returning the favor and it was her time for “words of inspiration” now. Of course, she was gracious, kind, and filled with joy and gratitude as Emily always is.  But, I still regret not standing up myself and I’m not sure why because I’m sure they wouldn’t even remember what I said.  But, in the great re-do’s of life, I would stand up now and say something like this, “Thank You.  Thank you for your hospitality and your warm welcome and for sharing your beautiful country with us.  Thank you for helping us slow down so we could enjoy God’s beautiful creation around us.  At home, back in America, I run too fast and I think I miss too much. I don’t always notice the beauty around me because I am too busy. I need to take time to just be so I can find the joy that I have found in each of you here at Masai Mara.  Thank You for your kindness and your smiles.  I will be back someday.” Maybe that speech was more for me than for them, even now.

Rain moved in quickly and strongly about a mile from the airplane and we had to stop to close the roof. Closed Jeep this time, luckily, but our luggage was in the Open Jeep.  This was the first rain of the trip and it was a torrential downpour. Despite the horrible weather on a tiny plane, we would make it back to Nairobi on a bumpy ride.  I remember feeling sick as the plane bounced about and then, all of sudden, it stopped and the ride became smooth. As I lifted my head and peered out the window, a brilliant double rainbow burst through the gray clouds. At that moment I was reminded that, even in the darkest of times and saddest experiences, hope often catches us off guard at surprising moments and in unlikely places. This was my final memory of our incredible trip to Kenya…

Later that night we would board a plane to Paris for a layover for a few days before returning home on June 18^th.  Paris was a contrast to Kenya in every way – most inexpensive meal of chicken & chips to the most expensive café corner meal of the trip; People speaking English everywhere in Kenya (even the most remote areas) to no one in the entire city of Paris able to speak one word of English. The biggest contrast, however, was the people – the friendliest, kindest people in the world in Kenya to the … Well, let’s just say the French lived up to their reputation on our trip. But, overall, Paris was a wonderful stopover and one I will write about someday but not today. Kenya is what we will remember most and I know we will go back.

Final Thoughts…

I’m not sure how to end this story because this trip will never end in our hearts and minds.  As Nate said, it was an experience more than a vacation, a life-changing experience that will always remain with us. We left inspired by strangers who exuded an uncommon joy with absolutely no reason to be joyful.  It confirmed an idea that has been bubbling inside of me for a while and is now ready to ooze out. I don’t want my kids to be “Happy”.  Happiness is circumstantial. Happiness is often obtained from exterior sources and stuff. Happiness is fleeting. Instead, I want my kids to be “Joyful” because joy grows from the inside out. This is the kind of joy we experienced all week through the children we met, children who have a never-quitting attitude of perseverance, an appreciation for hard work, a heart to help others, and a joyful spirit that overflows and inspires everyone they meet. I don’t know if the joy that these children embody is possible without the pain, challenges, and the struggles they have endured.  Can you really appreciate what you have and be grateful for it when you always have it?  I don’t know the answer to this question. It is one that lingers with me that will be revealed over time.  All I know now is that I want my kids to be like Stephen, Pamela, Tobias, Nereah, Susan, and Patrick with a faith that anchors their life and a life they live in gratitude to our great God. 

All I have say is, Wow, what a trip!

And now our journey continues back in Indianapolis with our work on the Kenya Carnival to help these kids we just met…

And, to God be the Glory!

Julie Osborne

8-8-09